Dr. Idriss, Mary Phillips, Mara Roszak on Building Beauty
Three beauty founders shared their expertise-to-brand journeys at a Glossy event, with Dr. Shereene Idriss advising to take time before launch.
Makeup artist Mary Phillips, dermatologist Dr. Shereene Idriss, and hairstylist Mara Roszak detailed how they converted professional expertise into successful beauty brands. The founders spoke at the Glossy POP NYC event held at the Fashion Institute of Technology.
Mary Phillips, known for her underpainting technique used on clients like Hailey Bieber, launched M.ph Beauty in 2025. The line includes lip liners, lipsticks, and an underpainting contour and highlighting palette. Phillips said her decision to launch came after a viral 2023 tutorial by creator Tara Sigari spotlighted her methods. "I was just getting, like, thousands and thousands of videos, and I knew that was the moment," Phillips told the audience.
Dr. Shereene Idriss, founder of the Dr. Idriss skincare line, emphasized the value of a slow, deliberate pre-launch phase. She described a development period of roughly two and a half years. "The best stage is before you launch, because nobody knows you’re launching," Dr. Idriss said. She likened it to a silent pregnancy, a time to enjoy quiet preparation before the public demands of a live brand.
On Building a Business Alone
Mara Roszak, founder of the hair care brand Rōz Hair, entered entrepreneurship with two decades of hairstyling experience but no business training. She initially sought a co-founder but ultimately built the company independently. Roszak now advises other entrepreneurs that they possess more capability than they realize. She encourages them to seek knowledge proactively, suggesting they talk to anyone willing to offer guidance.
On Sharing Professional Secrets
Mary Phillips reflected on her former reluctance to share her signature makeup techniques widely. She noted that before social media, makeup artists operated in relative isolation, rarely observing each other's methods. Clients would express surprise at her underpainting approach. The viral spread of techniques online has since changed that dynamic.
Other Industry Developments
The Glossy report also included several executive appointments and business moves within the beauty sector. A table of notable skincare and fragrance developments is provided below.
| Company/Brand | Development | Details |
|---|---|---|
| Swan Beauty | Appointment | Hired board-certified dermatologist Dr. Michelle Henry as chief medical advisor for educational content. |
| Dermalogica | Appointment | Named Vivianna Blanch, formerly of LVMH and L'Oréal, as global chief marketing officer. |
| Puig/Isdin | Acquisition | Puig will acquire full ownership of sunscreen brand Isdin in a deal valued at €1.2 billion. |
| Caudalie Group | Acquisition | Took a majority stake in Talm, a skincare brand focused on pregnancy and post-partum products launched in 2021. |
| Maison Crivelli | Retail Expansion | Opened its first Paris store on Rue Saint-Honoré, joining other fragrance brands on the street. |
In other news, Sephora's booth reportedly attracted over 2,000 attendees during the U.S. Open Finals Fan Fest weekend. The retailer is the first beauty retail partner for the New York City tennis tournament.
